Visit The Wye Valley of Monmouthshire in South Wales
Visit the Wye Valley of Monmouthshire in South Wales
If you have 2-3 days you want to spend in South East Wales I would definitely suggest visiting Monmouthshire and the Wye Valley and of course Abergavenny in the Vale of Usk.
Abergavenny, and the Wye Valley stretching from Monmouth to Chepstow is a real foodie paradise and beautiful undulating views. Everywhere you turn there is a beautiful view in front of you. The roads are very good quality even as you go up into the hills.
Mr R and I along with Manjiri and her husband Aditya headed to our first stop – Abergavenny followed by two days in Chepstow.
Bed & Breakfast:
The area is compact enough that you could stay in just one place or try a couple of the comfortable and reasonable places in the area. Deciding to break up our stay by staying in two places we spent the first two nights at the Park Guest House in Abergavenny. Park Guest House is a Bed & Breakfast.
Our bed was so comfy and together with the fresh air of the Vale of Usk we both had really deep sleeps!
Due to the present Covid-19 pandemic we were the only two rooms occupied which whilst being weird was rather nice. It will of course revert back to taking more people once we are no longer in lockdown conditions.
There is a communal lounge with TV, comfy sofas and free WiFi. They have facilities available for secure bike storage and clothes drying and will also supply packed lunches on request. There is limited off street parking which was a god send.
Our second two nights we stayed in the town of Chepstow right on the border with England. We booked into The First Hurdle at the end of the centre of town which also was connected to an amazing pizza restaurant Stone Rock Pizza (see Eating section for more on the pizza).
The rooms were compact but adequate and breakfast was included downstairs in the breakfast room off the pizza restaurant which was closed at that time of the day.
The hotel has nearby paid parking in the nearby pubic car park which is in sight of the hotel. Chepstow Castle is a short drive or 10 minute walk away as well.
Eating:
We had the opportunity to eat at loads of places starting initially in Abergavenny.
We walked through the town checking out the extensive list of places to eat and decided to try Meze Me a Turkish restaurant on Frogmore Street, NP7 5AH. The seating area was quite full however they were able to find us a table. It was difficult to decide what to eat so we just ordered loads!
Creamy hummus, deep fried squid rings followed by lovely lamb chops, baked aubergine (Imman Byaldi), kofte rolls and plenty of rice and lovely fresh salads. We left filled to the brim for the short walk back to our car on a lovely evening.
If you want to read a comprehensive review of Meze Me read Kavey Eats post here.
The second night we fancied a pizza and had been recommended to try Pizzorante also in the town centre on Market Street NP7 5SD. We booked a table which turned out to be a good idea as they were full. It didn’t take long for our starters to arrive followed by delicious pizzas, risotto and calzone (a folded pizza named after a pocket in Italian).
We moved to Chepstow and found some great eating places there too.
Stone Rock Pizza is attached to The First Hurdle accommodation. As we first walked into the restaurant the smell of pizza was mouthwatering and pretty overwhelming. I couldn’t resist ordering a pizza even though I wasn’t that hungry. They were worth ordering!!
Sunday lunch wasn’t forgotten either. We had a recommendation to try The Hunters Moon Inn (a 13th Century Inn) in the village of Llangattock Lingoed NP7 8RR, on the outskirts of Abergavenny. We were not disappointed and I would recommend you to try it if you are in the area.
After delicious starters which were just the right size not to ruin your appetite Sunday roasts were served with vegetables in large dishes for the whole table in family style. Of course I just had to have Welsh Lamb!!
On our last full day in Chepstow we were wandering around the town centre and of course it was time for a quick drink. Following a recommendation from the antique gallery next door we popped into the Lime Tree Cafe Bar Pub – 24, St Marys Arcade, Chepstow NP16 5EU. Mr R was happy with the beers on tap! We decided to have an early supper and ordered some starters then followed with the Fish-n-Chips (the pieces of fish were so huge I called them ‘whale-n-chips! Perfectly cooked with lovely crispy batter we ate heartily and somehow spent quite a few hours chilling and chatting about all of the great producers we had met during our stay.
Meet the Producers:
The main purpose of this trip, my first to this part of Wales was to meet some of the producers of the incredible Welsh food and drink.
We spent our time visiting the following small scale producers (there are loads more to discover on our next trip) all the while experiencing beautiful undulating views:-
White Castle Vineyard: We were greeted by the huge and beaming smile of owner Robb Merchant who with his wife Nicola own White Castle Vineyard (NP7 8RA) and produce award winning wines on the sloping Welsh hillside. Starting in the Grade 2 listed croft barn (1581) Robb began a history and tour of the vineyard all the time effervescing about his love for his property and his wines. He has plans for the barn to include an education plan and viniculture education.
White Castle is Wales’s leading vineyard set in 12 acres of undulating countryside with spectacular views. Originally purchased in 2008 the vines now include Pinot Noir, Regent, Rondo, Seyval Blanc and Phoenix grapes. The vineyard was recently the first Welsh Vineyard to win gold at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards (check out the link by clicking here)
Following a wine tasting set outside under cover we picked our favourites; Harry (Rhondo Grape) smooth with a slightly peppery end note this was a 2018 and 2019 blend. The other red we absolutely loved was Regent 2017. A darker colour with a lovely veil and reminiscent of dark chocolate and cinnamon. We bought both of these home to enjoy with rib eye or T-bone steaks on the BBQ.
Silver Circle Distillery: About 12 minutes out of Chepstow in the village of Catbrook (NP16 6UL) we visited Silver Circle Distillery. Our sat-nav took us up hill and down dale and just as we thought it was taking us for a ride (haha) we saw a sign to the left and we were there.
Using a 250 litre still named Rhiannon (most distilleries name their stills!) Silver Circle Distillery distill a range of premium spirits. Their Wye Valley Gin (70cl) is a London Dry with a lovely lemony, green citrus notes. Their botanicals are orris root, juniper and coriander as well as elderflower, Scots pine, sweet woodruff and linden flower which is the tree of Monmouthshire!
They also make Damson Negroni (50cl) using Wye Valley Gin, Campari, Vermouth and local damsons which is delightful neat or mix with ginger beer, Catbrook Honey Gin (50cl) and Gunga Gin (70cl) an Indian Style good with spicy foods.
My favourite though is their Bloody Mary Kit. Inside the box you get Black Garlic Vodka (50cl), a bottle of 11am Bloody Mary Hot Sauce and some perfect service recipe cards.
They serve cocktails at the distillery and I had a Blood Mary. It was one of the best Bloody Marys I have ever had – up there in my top 3! You have to visit and order one! Of course you can always order their Bloody Mary kit and make your own!
Brooke’s Wye Valley Dairy Company: What do you do if you have a herd of Jersey cows? You make cheese and ice cream! It was lovely to visit Hannah who with her family have been making artisan ice cream and cheese on the farm for over two generations at Brooke’s Wye Valley Dairy Company (NP16 6PS).
The Preservation Society: As a keen jam maker and preserver I was really keen to meet Angharad Underwood who preserves the bounty of the Welsh countryside. Originally making all her jams and preserves at home Angharad has moved to a small outbuilding on a local farm where we met her.
Angharad was busy making a batch of Strawberry and Prosecco jam, about a 20 kilo batch which filled the air with strawberry memories.
We were able to sample loads of her preserves and placed our orders. They were delivered to our house about three days after we got home. Really good service!
All of the recipes are family favourites, some handed down from Angharad’s grandmothers, and other friends and family. She loves using local seasonal ingredients, and is part of a brilliant network of local “Swap Croppers” sharing their apples, quince and damsons.
Varieties such as Apple, Quince & Membrillo, Candied Jalapeños, Limey Lime Marmalade, Mango Chutney and Ravishingly Raspberry Preserve to list just a few will have you spoilt for choice. You can also book courses and masterclasses. If you are a fan of homemade jams, preserves and chutneys you need to check out the website.
You can buy online or find The Preservation Society at one of the markets and festivals nearby.
Wye Valley Meadery: Mead is a wine made out of honey. Mead is one of the oldest fermented drinks ever! The term ‘Honeymoon’ comes from the old tradition that mead was drunk for one month after the wedding!
Brothers Matt and Kit have taken a drink that has been around for thousands of years and added a new modern twist. Their love of nature had steered them to embrace an age old tradition and make a delicious drink with their individual stamp on it.
They make a sparkling mead (4%) in five flavours; Pure Honey, Honey & Rhubarb, Honey & Ginger, Honey & Elderflower, Honey & Mango as well as their newest venture of honey beer. The beers, called Hive Mind are 5.7% Honey Citra IPA, 4.5% Golden Honey Ale and 7% Smoked Honey Porter. Of course they sell their honey as well as a traditional Mead.
At their premises in Caldicot just outside of Chepstow (NP26 5PR) they also run courses to ‘Make Your Own Mead’ and ‘Bee Keeping’. They have just finished building a mezzanine floor for added space and will be offering a bar so you can drop in and drink their creations and hope to soon offer entertainment as well.
The brothers have just installed bee hives at Caldicot Castle and plan to produce honey here as it was years ago.
Of course I brought home loads of product with me but you can order online and deliver is quick and nationwide.
Chill out time:-
We took every opportunity to sit and observe the beauty around us, for instance sitting by the River Severn at Black Rock Picnic Site, gazing out at the impressive Prince of Wales bridge linking England to Wales.
The bridge was built in 1996 to relieve some of the pressure of the old Severn Bridge opened in 1966 which shortened the circuitous route via Gloucester. Black Rock Picnic Site is a quiet space to enjoy your surroundings sitting in Wales and looking across to England.
In Chepstow we sat by the River Wye having morning coffee. We walked over the Old Wye Bridge into England and back into Wales! The bridge, originally wooden, was first a crossing in Norman times however is now a road bridge and constructed of iron in 1816. This bridge crosses a river with one of the highest tidal ranges in the world!
We wanted to visit Chepstow Castle however due to Covid restrictions it was ticket entry only and was fully booked. It is a beautiful and imposing building and I look forward to walking around and taking in the history. This is on my list for next time.
There is so much to see and do in the Wye Valley, including castles, museums and festivals!
It won’t be long till I make a return trip to Visit Monmouthshire, there is so much to see and do!
If you enjoyed this post have a look at some of my other short trip posts.
Glad you had a lovely visit to our neck of the woods and also that you enjoyed Meze Me and Pizzorante. Butterfly you will also get to The Gaff and The Black Bear next time!
We did have a lovely break. I will definitely book The Gaff for next time.