Greece: Thessaloniki: Come for the Culture – Stay for the Food
Thessaloniki: Come for the Culture – Stay for the Food
Where is Thessaloniki?
Thessaloniki is the second-largest city in Greece, located in the northern part of the country. It is the capital of the Central Macedonia region and is a short 55 minute flight from the capital city of Athens. A short drive of approx half an hour and you arrive a Halkidiki where you can sit on sandy beaches and chill.
When was Thessaloniki founded?
Thessaloniki was founded almost 2,300 years ago and it was named for Alexander the Great’s half sister Thessaloniki whom he fell in love with. She was said to be a beauty and this legend persists to present day. The coast and hills around Thessaloniki are beautiful as is the glimpse of Mount Olympus visible above the clouds on the other side of the bay.
What are the main influences of Thessaloniki?
The city is littered with reminders of occupations over time such as the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Churches on just about every corner including the Rotunda which formed the city’s administrative and religious centre in Roman Times, Citadel and defending wall.
Above the modern town is the oldest district of Thessaloniki with narrow lanes of Ano Polo. There are castles and monuments and fortifications everywhere you look.
Thessaloniki is a mixture of architecture and food with a plethora of little cafes specialising in the thick Greek coffee, steamed in the famous briki coffee pots. Lattes and cappuccinos are also available everywhere. For this reason Thessaloniki was designated City of Gastronomy in 2021 by UNESCO.
What is the iconic ‘White Tower’ of Thessaloniki?
The exact origins of the White Tower are not precisely known, but it is believed to have been constructed by the Ottomans sometime during the late 15th century or early 16th century. Originally, it was part of the city’s defensive fortifications.
The tower has undergone name changes throughout its history. It has been known as The Black Tower, The Red Tower and now the White Tower after a whitewash to give it a less threatening image. The current name stuck, and it is now universally recognized as the White Tower.
Over the centuries, the White Tower has served various purposes, including being used as a fortress, prison, and observation tower. It has also been associated with the city’s turbulent history, witnessing numerous historical events and changes.
The tower has six internal levels, and visitors can climb to the top to enjoy panoramic views of Thessaloniki and the surrounding area. visitors can also visit the White Tower Museum dedicated to the city’s history.
What’s the Thessaloniki food scene?
They say you visit Thessaloniki for the culture but stay for the food. This is certainly what I found. We had delicious lunches and sumptuous dinners. If you think you will leave a local restaurant without being really full think again!
Estrella:
Estrella (48 Pavlov Mela Street, Thessaloniki) takes brunch very seriously claiming to have introduced the idea to Greece. The menu draws inspiration from American diners but marries traditional greek ingredients like local bougatsa’s, feta cheese and fruit coulis and whipped creams to create an all-day coffee-restaurant with unique cocktails and outstanding dishes to appeal to all ages.
Their stacks of pancakes are unique – Red Velvet with cheesecake cream and berries, bacon, cheddar and spicy mayo; waffles with double chocolate and tahini cream, matcha cheesecake with cream cheese and apricot jam; including burgers, bagels and sensational coffee.
Maitr & Margarita
Maitr & Margarita (Fragkon 3, Thessaloniki). This restaurant is run by a chef and sommelier couple; Socrates Beliyannis – chef and Roy Apilou – sommelier. They truly offer a modern taste of a modern city. We ate dishes such as Cauliflower, muhammara, pomegranates seeds and blue cheese from Thessaloniki; Blowtorched fish of the day, grilled kale, fried giant beans and tarmas cream and Grilled octopus, pepper glaze, “fasolada” beans, cream and pickles. These dishes and more are part of an innovative menu.
Akti Ntovil
Akti Ntovil (tel: 2310 407000). This restaurant has the most tranquil and beautiful setting right at the edge of the water, with candle light and sparkling glasses on the tables and a wide wine list you know already the food will be a gastronomic experience.
The food arrived and was served by waiters keeping an eye on our every wish and filling our glasses before we had a chance to empty them! The proximity to the sea is reflected in the fish/seafood dishes we were served. Just as we thought we were full the most alluring platters of spaghetti with prawns and shell fish!
Yet somehow we were able to force down some dessert!!
Trizoni
Trizoni (Doxis 1 & Salaminos 12) Tucked off the main road in the old buildings of the historic centre, Trizoni offers a full al ‘a carte menu as well as a tasting menu based on the local fresh fish. There is outside seating for nicer weather but a tad too cold for us in December.
Among the delicious dishes we had was a Swordfish Gravlax as well as Greek salad and the most delicious risotto I have ever tasted – the Fisherman’s Dish – Risotto with Fish Broth, Shell fish and Rockfish! Trizoni Halva, a semolina pudding with cinnamon ice cream was the perfect way to end the meal.
Local Experiences in Thessaloniki:
Bougatsa Bakery –
Bougatsa is a Thessaloniki treat of a custard pie encased in honey glazed filo pastry. Although traditional there are now more flavours due to the popularity of this snack. All over Thessaloniki you will see long queues outside favourite bougatsa bakeries as it is the most popular morning snack to go with your cup of coffee or at any time you need a quick bite!
We stopped by Bougatsa Bantis (Panagias faneromenis33) and had the pleasure of watching the bougatas being made. Large blocks of butter used to create extra thin sheets of filo pastry which is stretched large, thin and then filled with custard or a cheese filling and baked. These are sold upstairs to the waiting customers.
Ktima Gerovassiliou –
Venture out of the city and visit Ktima Gerovassiliou , a vineyard that makes delicious, award winning wines in modern conditions, new technological advances blend well with tradition throughout vine growing and vinification processes. On a clear day you can see Mt Olympus in the distance.
This vineyard has a modern wine museum (which houses a private collection of over 2,600 corkscrews) and modern art installations all over the vineyard
Kazakis House of Viniculture –
Kazakis House of Viniculture about half an hour drive from the centre of Thessaloniki at New Gonia. This vineyard does not make wine with the grapes but concentrates on making a grappa like single grape spirit as well as an award winning single grape spirit called Abalone, the personal project of Pangalos Kazakis. The family firm produces food products to avoid any waste!
The mother of the three sons who run the business, Marianna makes products you can buy to take home and this cuts down on the waste. You can buy dried raisins, organic dolmades, organic vine leaves, organic petimezi (mosto cotto) a thick sweet grape syrup and organic vine tops (the tops of the growing vines usually discarded however turned into the perfect topping for a delicious whipped feta cheese)
Where to stay in Thessaloniki.
Thessaloniki offers all of the usual hotels you would expect in a big city a well as smaller pension type. However why not try a new experience and stay at Thess Residences, a unique home-from-home self-catering apartment with 25 self catering apartments as well as friendly staff to help with any queries you may have. They can call a taxi for you, arrange car-hire, advise you where to eat out or arrange a meal delivery for you and all this with the privacy of an apartment.
Facilities include a laundry, business centre, small gym and lounge with TV and movies where you can chill if you want a quieter night in. If you have the family with you, you can calm the kids down before bedtime and have a coffee yourself . I like to have coffee making facilities before starting my day and everything is included as well as a small but fully equipped kitchenette, sitting area and comfortable beds giving you somewhere to stay in a foreign city with the heart of a welcome environment dedicated to making the most of your visit.
The old part of Thessaloniki is a 10-15 minute walk away.
Guests return again and again to stay at Thess Residences and I am sure you would too once you have stayed there.
How can you get to Thessaloniki?
I flew with EasyJet from London Gatwick airport directly to Thessaloniki. The journey time was around 3 hours 40 minutes. There are flights from other major UK airports as well.
Further reading of my trips to Greece.
If you would like to read more of my posts from visits to Greece click the links below:
A Long Weekend in Athens Post-Pandemic
Corfu – Three Amazing Beaches and A Boat Trip
Making Melomakarona – Greek Christmas Cookies
Thessaloniki really is in a league of its own for food culture — your description of the city’s layered culinary history, drawing from Ottoman, Jewish and Mediterranean traditions, captures it well. One thing I’d add is that bougatsa is almost a ritual here: flaky pastry filled with warm semolina custard, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, eaten standing at a counter at seven in the morning. Just look at these bougatsa photos from Saloniki and see how the pastry tempts you — that’s Greece at its best. Thanks for shining a light on a city that deserves far more attention.